I got a new toy...

I got a new soldering station from the missus.

Way better than any Radio Shack soldering iron I've ever used. Almost burnt my hand just testing it: left it on for 5 seconds just to make sure it works. After shutting it off and unplugging it, went to touch the tip...OUCH!

I'm excited!

In downtime....

Christmas is coming up...funds low...can't mod...that's all...

On the flip side...

Ahh, gotta love smartphones. My Droid has a Photobucket app. So along side uploading pics to G+, I can upload select photos to my Photobucket page (the main place where I put my mod and dig photos). So, I'm thinking my blog may be more picturesque from here on end...as long as Photobucket stays free.

Wait, that's not all I did...

Forgot that I did some other mods in the meantime. I've been getting a little lazy on posting.

Added A/V to a RF only Top-Loading NES...

Added A/V to an Atari 7800...

Faux Stereo mod to a toaster NES (going back in later to use a better potentiometer)...

In terms of digging:

2 Playstation Move controllers ($3 each!)

Game Gear (Missing battery covers and the brightness dial was broken, easy fixes. Tested and working)

SNES Jr. (Dirty as f**k, but works nonetheless)

And a 32X (No, it's not just a hollow shell. I was in the middle of cleaning it up from the dig when I decided I needed to snap a picture of it. No wires or adapters, but the insides looked clean.)

VGA Dreamcast...DONE...

...Albeit a while ago, but I managed to get it finished. It took me couple of days to get it finished, but, well, it was well worth it.

This is my DC, splayed out in all it's glory. I effed up on the hole for the VGA connector, hence why it looks so ghetto in the back.

A little better shot of the mod itself. That PCB was created by shadows from the Neo-Geo.com forums. Really nice board. Made all the connections easier. 

I have to say that when I first finished this mod up, the DC would work...for a few minutes. Then it'll just shut off. I had NO idea why it was doing that, so I gave up for the time being (I've already worked on the mod itself for 8 hrs straight). I first thought that it was because I accidentally lifted up a trace from one of the points I needed to soldered to. It turns out that I didn't have a ribbon cable inserted all the way, not engaging the DC's fan, therefore causing what the machine thought was an overheat, making the system shut down....F**king electronics!

Anyway, here's the result on my LCD HDTV:

It's a thing of beauty....

Oh sh...what's new!

Again, with the brief hiatus,  I'm kinda back in. Tendinitis still there, nothing I can do about that. Buuuut, new projects to work on.

First off, I got one of those CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA scalers. It's a bare board. That means RGB mods for all my old consoles! Tested and works. Just gotta figure out what I need I'm terms of parts.

Another one is a VGA Dreamcast mod. I was just gonna build the circuit using a proto board, but someone had a premade board. So I scooped that up. Just a matter of getting a few components and I'm set.

My goal is to at least get 2 or 3 of my old consoles to go RGB for the scaler. I'm thinking maybe the N64, SNES, and my model 1 Genesis...to start.

There's still that joystick I want to build up. Also, looking at investing in a new soldering station...so much needed...

As it strikes...

I haven't been working on any projects as of late: I have no supplies. I have to order a bunch, but I think they can stay on the sideline for now.

Only real big project I want to work on now is getting my MV-1F consolized and possibly sold. I'm thinking of just biting the bullet and just selling it as is, holes and all. Otherwise, I think it'll be a nice project to work on and sell off when it's done.

Also, the second 360 that I had (my backup) didn't survive the reflow, so it was reballed and now works like a champ. Got it as backup, but seeing that the next gen is slowly making its way in, I may just sell it off. I have no use for it really...maybe. We'll see.

A brief vaca from modding...

Needed time away from work, so I went home...like home where I was born home. Not gonna think about the projects that need to be done, just relaxing.

Goodbye, 360. Hello, 360.

So, I drove kinda out of my way to get a reflow done on my Elite 360 since it red ringed on me the other day. Whelp, after about an hour or so of wait time and cruising around a half-dead mall, the original Elite didn't survive...well, shit...

So, the guy who did the reflow hooked me up. In the end, I got a working 360 back in my Elite case with a better drive than I had before. Yay me!

I'm sure if we reballed it, it would've survived. But whatever.

TG16 S videoed...

Ah, forgot to add that I did finish that S-Video on my TG16. Works and looks freaking AWESOME! I also managed to do a quick and dirty preamp for a sound boost...yeah, I've been made fun of on some forums, but at least the sound is better that what it was straight out from the mainboard... That was something that no one on any board could figure out, so whatever. It works.

Updates and Red Ring woes...

Quick and simple. I got my Turbo EverDrive. May I just say BEST. FLASHCARD. FOR. TG16/PC ENGINE. EVAR! I've just been messing with it and I'm loving that majority of the HuCard library can be played from just one Micro SD card. Love it!

On the opposite side of the spectrum, my 360 Elite red ringed on me. I tried fixing it once with the ever so prevalent X-clamp fix, but it only lasted about a year (7 months if you consider continuous play). I'm getting it reflowed tomorrow by someone who has a really good reflow setup. Here's to hoping for a good fix.

S-Video Madness...

I know that with retro systems, RGB is the way to go. However, I don't have that luxury. If my HDTV accepts the signal, I'm ok with it, but with some, like my CMVS, it didn't like the component part of it...which was my biggest selling point on the Neobitz. I got S-Video to work fine with them, and I'm happy with the results.

I did add S-Video to my SNES the other night. WOW, what a difference from RF or even composite makes. I've never seen Mario Kart or Killer Instinct so vivid before. I'm happy with it.

I still plan on doing the S-Video mods to the TG16 and PCE Duo... Speaking of which, I also just picked up a flash card for the PCE/TG. An Everdrive. I've already have just about all EDs available, and just today, the creator of it (KRIKzz) has made preorder available. I just had to scoop one up.

Going back in time...

I decided, since I have all the parts laying around for a while, that I was gonna tackle some mods on other consoles.

First off, I did a first gen Sega Genesis S-Video mod. I took the plans from this blog:

http://freezerdev.blogspot.com/2012/02/project-genesis-modding.html

Except I used a 220 ohm resistor on the Chroma and Composite line instead of the 75 ohm. The problem I had was vertical bars that were visible with a black background. I've been told that I may also try using a 100uF capacitor instead of the 220uF capacitor as the blog suggests.

I got it to work decently, but on some games, I get some color mixing that lasts for several minutes. I'm still trying to get a straight answer on a fix for it, but no one has stepped to the plate.

I applied the same schematic to my Sega Master System, with awesome results....I can't believe that we played all those 8-bit and 16-bit games through RF. I was happy when I could use Composite, but by comparison, S-Video is way awesome.

I'm gonna tackle my TG-16 and PC-Engine S-Video mod next. I did promise my wife that I'd work on her hacking project before I did any more of my projects, but since I have my "little" tendonitis flare-up...meh, she understands, that's all that matters.

Gaming on hiatus...

Tendonitis sucks. That is all.

Also to add to my adventures in modding...

I killed my PS2 slim trying to mod it. I think the lasers toast, but meh. I left a note for the future me to take care of.

I also got some swag this past weekend from my wife's cousin. I got a High Definition Graphics Genesis console, a toaster NES, and an Atari 7800. I haven't tested any of them, but I know at least the 7800 powers up. YAY!

MV2 CMVS pics.

I guess I haven't showed any pics of the MV2 that I consolized, so here's some shots.

  The MV2 consolized in all it's semi glory. I still haven't finished the base, but it's an easy make. Since I've taken this pic, I've since added a protector to the JAMMA edge. I have 2 coats of primer and finished the paint job using a hammered look finish spray paint to it.

This is the original shielding. Just sprayed with primer to prevent future rusting. Here, I have all the wiring for connectors done. All connectors are on quick disconnects. So if I needed to get under the hood for some reason, it'll be easier without having the wires all willy-nilly. The left of the pics show the Audio and Video wires, the right of the pic has the power.

Close up of the power section. 2.5mm power jack, power switch, and an inline fuse holder. Not necessarily needed, but installed it for added protection.

 Audio and Video connectors. Component video does not work with my Vizio HDTV, but the composite and S-video work just fine.

Close up of the wiring. Yeah, A/V area is a mess, but it works.

RGB connections to the encoder, sync point, and +5V. That large capacitor is long since gone from this project since it was causing a rolling image. Per sage advice on the Neo-Geo.com forums, I moved the sync point from the 470Ω resistor as shown here to the 100Ω resistor above it without the capacitor (that orange thing). Works perfectly.

Closer look at sync and +5V connections. There an area slightly above the +5v connection that used to house a voltage regulator of some sort. Per the JNX tutorial, that was removed, modded under the board for +5V only, and now used as a grounding pin.

I forgot to take a pic of it, but I've also gone and replaced the stock lithium battery used to hold high scores, calendar info, etc. with a CR2032 battery and a battery holder I pilfered off an old computer system board.

That's all for now.

So, a month or so later...

I finished the MV2 CMVS project. It took a while, but I got it to work.

Why did it take so long?

1. Parts. I gave up buying things that were frivolous for Lent. Work out pretty well. So without that, I was stuck using what I had, which meant recycling from my first project.

2. Painting. I decided to paint up the case to make it look nice. Even after drilling, grinding, sanding, priming, and painting with a hammered finish paint, I still managed to eff it up. There's a tape line edge on the case. It's not bugging the heck out of me, but I know it will eventually. I had a friend back on Maui cut me some vinyl stickers with his plotter to, at least, take some of the focus away from that nasty line.

3. Acrylic Base. Even after checking my measurements 3 times, I managed to get every spot drilled incorrectly. No only that, though. I had bought some low profile standoffs to prop the board up no more than 1/4" high. I thought they'd be ok just using standard PC screws...nope. Ugh.

4. Wiring. To make it easy for me to open the top case to change the battery or whatnot, I used some disconnects within the wiring. It was just cumbersome getting everything prepped, but it was well worth it in the end.

5. Testing. I actually finished the project on April 15th..really early in the morning. Now, when I tested the board when I first got it, it worked fine. I took the connectors from the MV-1F CMVS and used them temporarily on the MV2. Worked then. After getting #4 done, I got a rolling image (like the vertical hold wasn't working). After some brain rest and posting to Neo-Geo.com, I took out a component and soldered the Sync wire from one point to another and like magic, the scrolling is gone.

Anywho, I'm pretty much 99% done. It's just the base that needs to be done. But yeah, when that's done in this coming week, pics are going up.

Hmmm...dirty...

Did I mention that the board was dirty...Like, I-haven't-seen-the-light-of-day-for-years dirty? I brushed off what I could that was loose, then I swabbed with alcohol. Yep, ended up with dirt swirls.

Wat do?

I ran it under warm water, scrubbed it with a toothbrush and a bit of soap. It looks a lot better.

I ran out of compressed air, so I'm doing it old skool (blowing it), and letting it air dry for several days.

Hoo boy. I hope I didn't f**k it up.

Le project part deux...

So, I was just planning to clean up the install on the MV-1F CMVS I made. But I saw a MV2 come up for sale in the forums I kinda lurk through. So, I scooped it up.

Why do another CMVS? I've been planning to do a MV2 just because of the vertical cart slots and memory card slot. So, I raided parts from my 1F CMVS and recycled them for testing purposes, using the Neobitz and the UniBIOS (Which, I'm NEVER taking out again!). Fired it up, works.

Whew.

The guy who sold me the board hadn't used it for several months. I'm glad that I don't have to worry about it not working. So far, per JNX's tutorials, I've done the 5V only mod and battery mod. The setup I have going on with it now it PURELY for testing. Cleanup begins as soon as I can get the top shield of the MV2 cleaned and painted.

What becomes of the 1F? I may still consolize it and sell it off. Time will tell. For now, the MV2 is the focus.

Gaining control...

So I tried going the "build-your-own" controller way. Didn't fare out so well. I know I wired it correctly, but somehow, the "D" button didn't work on it.

Lowe and behold the Neo-Geo.com sales threads in the forums. The same guy that I bought the MV-1F from had an old skool NG AES (the home system) joystick that had a rotting strain relief, which is a common problem. I just had to scoop it up.

So now, I'm playing proper like. I'll add pics up when I have a moment.

Also, I've been starting to collect my MVS carts. Planning on getting full game sets like KOF, Samurai Shodown, Fatal Fury, and World Heroes. I may hunt for some puzzle, shooters, and side scrolling beat-em-ups in the future...but I'm making these series primary. LOL!

Now for the case....

I'm thinking that I'm gonna make a functional enclosure for my CMVS. I'm set on using wood since it's easily accessible for me and it could be potentially cheaper in the long run. It'll even look cool if I stain it right. I was thinking plastic (like plexiglass), but I'm afraid of cracking it while I'm screwing something in. I'd do metal, but I don't think I have any of the proper tools to form one....wood it might be.

In any other case (LOL, pun!), since the cartridge connector board separates from the main board by several connectors, I may just solder a total of 192 (!) wires to relocate the cartridge board. Yikes!...well, I guess it doesn't matter, considered how many wires I've already soldered altogether. Since there's two 96 pin connectors, I may just do one side on one day and the other on a later day. I still want to avoid all that, but that'll be the cheapest solution.

There is a 48 pin connector that's in the middle of both boards, but for the life of me, I think neither connector is connected to anything. I'm trying to confirm with Neo-Geo.com's forums about this, and it seems that it's only for stabilization of the cartridge board when it's on the main board.

SUCCESS GET!

So last night, before I went to bed, I realized that I forgot to add a component to the installation so it'll work with my HDTV. So when I got home from work this evening, after tending to my kiddos, I was able to add the component on to the installation. Hooked it all up again...didn't work. Same stuff.

I posted at neo-geo.com about my situation, and it seems that Sifu Xian Xi mentioned that I needed to tap the RGB and Sync signals from different spots on the board. Seems like the Sync signal was the culprit, as I couldn't go straight off the JAMMA edge for the signal. I had to get the signal from another point off of a resistor, which basically gave the Sync signal some resistance.

...pay no attention to Cookie Monster. He's excited that it works, too.

After fixing that up, I finally got an image!...through composite. Meh, it works. Component doesn't work for me, and after a conversation with Jeff Kurtz, it seems it may just be my HDTV. I may play around with the values on the capacitor later, but for now, I'm happy it worked.

I did get greeted by the "Cross Hatch Test Screen of Death", which generally means that there's either bad connections with the game and/or the board, or there's a bad trace on the board itself. Turns out that if I tilted the board just right, I'd get the UniBIOS screen, then the familiar Neo Geo boot screen.

....F**K YEAH!

So, component wise, it works. It's fully functional. All I need to do is finish it up aesthetically, potentially hiding the exposed board and whatnot.

As it stands, though. It's done and working.

Snags along the way...

I got too excited, so I forgot to take pics along the way. Doesn't matter though. After completing the install, the thing didn't work. It DOES power on, but there's no video.

I've posted for help. I'm hoping I can resolve this thing on my next day off.

Ugh...

More stuff...

Finished up some more installation stuff from the other night and tonight.

Here's back part of the panel of the MZ1F. Holes drilled and bored for audio and various video outputs.

All jacks screwed in and kinda in line.

Just because it was advised by another modder at JNX.com, I've added a fuse holder (holding a 2A fuse) inline with the power jack. Here they are on the left side of the MV1F's cartridge guide.

And now, the power switch.

Here's the underside...really tight under the power switch (far right contacts)

The next night, I decided to solder up the wiring for the power adapter. It goes from the +5V from the adapter's center to the fuse holder. From the fuse holder to one side of the power switch. From the power switch, to the +5V point on the MV1F.

I also managed to get all the ground points all looped together for the audio and video outputs.

(insert pic of wired back panel)

There's more to come. It's almost at the homestretch, but I still have to get a few more parts.

And so it begins...

I got the encoder from JKurtz the other day, so I'm all set to go.

First of, here's the Neo Geo MV-1F that I got through Neo-Geo.com's sales forum...and from here on end, please forgive the camphone pics, bear with the quality for a bit.

Here's where I'm replacing the original MVS BIOS with Razoola's UniBIOS.

The Universe BIOS (UniBIOS)

Raz mentions using a small screwdriver to remove the original BIOS from the socket. I used my IC pullers...since I had them.

Here's the original BIOS removed from the socket.

Something that could have been avoided, but sometimes it just happens, since the package came from Finland. Some of the pins have bent out of whack. Easy fix, though.

Using my trusty Leatherman (well, it was my wife's Leatherman, but whatever), I used the pliers to get the pins straightened. Then used the level surface of the table to get all the pins aligned.

Then all I did was insert it CAREFULLY back into the socket. I pushed down on both sides of the BIOS and then firmly pushed down on the center of it. Then I did a quick double check to make sure all the pins were placed correctly in the socket.

I took the original BIOS and placed it in the package that the UniBIOS came in; a nice little matchbox!

So, for the controller, I decided to try and function my own controller. I went to Goodwill and found a pair of PC controllers that used the same DB15 connector that the Neo Geo uses. Luckily, it had both a male and female connection to it. I'm planning to hack them just so I can have basic controls for at least the initial test of my CMVS, since the PC control scheme is different from the Neo Geo's. Also, a standard DB15 is too short to work with a direct Neo Geo controller port. Again, luckily, a website belonging to MMMonkey had a cool hack to a DB15 to make it work with the Neo Geo port.

Here's my hacked DB15.

(insert pic of DB15)

Well, there' s more to come. Next up, I need to figure out where to tap the necessary RGB, Sync, +5V, and Ground. Jamma-Nation-X.com has a tutorial for that, but it shows an MV-1FZ being used and shows the points for what I need, which all are on the bottom of the board. I, on the other hand, will be taking it from the top (component side, in JAMMA terms) of the board. Hopefully I can get that AND all the power and whatnot ready to go.

Stay tuned, I guess.

Moar!

So, I got my UniBIOS from Razoola the other day. Just got an email from Jeff and my Neobitz encoder is on its way.  I'd be lying if I didn't say I was excited. Still haven't solved that controller thing, but that'll be easy to remedy...I hope.